smells of nostalgia

marinid tombs

If you walk up to the top of the hill supporting the Marinid Tombs, you will find yourself at one of my favourite spots in Fes. Faced with some cracking views, visit as the sun sets. Don't stay too late though; the area attracts some characters come nightfall.

We met two boys on our way up, who told us to "broaden our minds," when we refused their invitation for a drink. As ridiculous as this was, it just happens all too often to girls the world over. Boys who do this aren't fooling anyone; there is no respect left for people who use insults in response to rejection.

We managed to get to the top of the hill without further harassment, and walked into the remains of a rather enormous tomb left by the Marinids, a structure maybe two or three stories high and pretty spacious. Whilst I was stood inside imagining what kind of superstar this tomb commemorated, Lindz and I minding our own business really, or you know, the Marinids' business, when we sensed that we were being watched.

As it turned out, an older teenage boy was inside the tomb too, halfway up the wall, making his presence known. A bit confused, but impressed by his Spiderman skills, we let him do his thing. He's the one in the top picture, on top of the world...

volubilis AKA walili

An hour's drive from Fes lie the Roman remains of the ancient city of Volubilis. Standing alone amongst golden fields, blue mountains and clouds that hang like a ceiling, the city may be gone, but the drama is still here.

Volubilis was actually the first Roman settlement in Morocco, and Morocco's first capital city. It is clear from the layout what a lot of the spaces were designed for: baths, an olive oil press, a sacrificing stage. Others, I was told were: the courts of law, the temple of the gods Jupiter, Juno and Minerva.

Efforts have been made to restore parts of the site; columns filled in with brick to keep them standing. It's fun to construct the spaces in your head and imagine what life might have been like in those sophisticated but merciless times.

finding food in fes

If you hadn't already guessed, cheap tagine can get tiresome fast. If you're thinking of coming to Fes on a budget, that's fine, it can work. But if you pay a bit more for the food, it will probably (surprise!) taste better. 

The Ruined Garden Cafe
A delightful treasure at the end of what can only be described as an endless tunnel of teasing signs. This place is run by Australians, who, using local foods, make not-so-traditional dishes to suit a more western clientele. Our tastebuds were grateful.

Terrace Cafe
A beautiful place to eat right by Bab Boujloud, this one was still cheap but tasty! They make really good fish and chips. So good, that I had to escape the terrace one evening as a hungry cat came sniffing it out. Don't worry though, it got my leftovers...

realities of life: conversations

There are many things that you can only learn through conversation.